The H2O Project:
Olympia to the Nisqually Delta
16 Feb 2019
A bit of history
I moved to Salmon Beach at the end of June 2016. Already having a love of kayaking brought with me from AZ (though we had lakes), this was the perfect opportunity to jump into sea kayaking….with no real experience.
I bought a 2009 Current Designs Squall GTS. Green, 16 ft 6 in long, 22-inch beam and not what I would, even now, refer to as stable. I learned plenty, started buying gear, then became serious. I found a hard-chined Nigel Foster Shadow, sold the Squall GTS and replaced it with a Wilderness Systems Tempest 170 (the one in the pic on the sidebar, since sold), and then added a Point 65n Whiskey 16 Rocker (designed by Nigel Foster).
With multiple sets of quality gear, 3 capable and purpose designed sea kayaks, an array of camping gear, and some education (with more planned), sea kayaking had become more passion than hobby.
The Cascadia Marine Trail
I am not exactly sure when the idea of kayaking the length of the Cascadia Marine Trail came up. I remember learning about it was something I wanted to accomplish when I turned 50. January 2019, a month after hitting 50, in the locker room following a Washington Kayak Club pool session, there was a conversation about paddling the length of the Puget Sound. My ears perked up.
The plan grew with the intent to kayak from Hobuck Beach on the Makah Reservation to Olympia (hence H2O) in stages (and not necessarily in order) before the end of 2019. A total of 190 nautical miles of paddling. PERFECT! Completed before 51!
UPDATE, May 2020: COVID-19 put a damper on the Project in March of 2020 and trips have been on hold for now.
Olympia to the Nisqually Delta
The first thought – can I actually do this at 50? I would be the least experienced paddler – by far. Plus the distance. I am in great shape but had never paddled more than 5 nautical miles of open water or more than 7 total. This would be 18 nautical miles with 2 short breaks. Not making it wasn’t an option.
The second thought was more of a realization – I would be paddling in conditions, at some point, beyond my skill set. That was followed by realizing I would be the least experienced paddler on this adventure. That meant some risk, but also plenty of opportunities to learn the way I do best – by the seat of my pants!
We left Olympia about 0930 (I use a 24hr clock to make it less confusing, something tied to my survival skills – don’t confuse anyone who could save you.)
All the concerns were gone. They no longer mattered. The launch went smoothly. Paddling out we had good weather. There were a few grumblings about wearing too many layers as it was warmer than expected. The first 6 or so miles to Boston Harbor were easy. Mostly on a slack tide, little wind, and no waves. I felt good when we hit the beach for a quick break.
Back on the water it was a bit chillier, though still pleasant. Without much current, the paddle to our lunch stop wasn’t difficult, but I started to feel it at the end. I was tired and had a bit of trouble maintaining proper form with my forward stroke. The last one to land, I definitely started thinking ahead and began to wonder if I would hold up the group.
Lunch was in the rain and colder. It also provided another good lesson – I learned a bit about what I SHOULD have packed. I brought a sandwich and an energy bar. The trip leaders brought something warm to eat and drink. A thermos with soup and one with tea. Snacks were protein based – beef jerky.
After some food and a needed break, my energy was restored. Finding out it was 8+ miles from Boston Harbor to our lunch spot meant a short paddle to our pull out point at Luhr landing in the Nisqually Delta.That was a big morale booster.
An old dinosaur – the Pterodactyl
The final miles
Knowing I was tired, I swapped paddles. I started the trip using a Gearlab Nukilik paddle. It was the first time I used a Greenland paddle outside a pool session and there is a learning curve. Feeling I was less efficient, going back to my high angle Werner Cypress made sense. Using it I felt stronger and more confident (as one of the other paddlers stated, you know the blade is there and will support you on edge or in a brace). It was a reassuring feeling.
That didn’t last long. A mile in I felt more exhausted and started trailing behind. The shorter paddle with a high angle stroke wasn’t a good pairing with a tired body. Tired meant my form was off again. It was harder to maintain full rotation and power, so more arms and shoulders. Weaker stroke and an overall weaker muscle group. By the 3rd mile, I could feel my arms tiring and my upper back getting sore. We were still a distance out. Trailing back and a slight cross current meant little opportunity to stop paddling and rest.
By the time I could see our cars at the end of our end point, I was spent. Exiting the boat a relief combined with a huge of a sense of accomplishment…..and then I remembered we be paddling a longer distance next weekend.
The map of our kayak adventure from Olympia, WA to the Nisqually Delta 2019
Aside from the little things, like the whole lunch thing and what to pack on long day paddles (a small cook system for heating water in case of hypothermia or for cold hands/feet, heat packs are perfect for placing in gloves, why a storm cag is handy), there were a few others:
The human factor
We maintained a good pace…18 nautical miles in 5 hours works out to just shy of 3.5 knots. A quick pace with no current to assist. Conditioning is important, but covering distance in a kayak is a bit different than running or hiking. Form matters more. It’s about finesse more than power. A good forward stroke, one that is more efficient, means less work and a less tired body.
I need to work on my forward stroke.
The other big factor may have been my kayak. I opted for the Whisky 16. I had the most recent ‘seat time’ in it and felt more confident taking it out in unfamiliar waters on a long paddle. The Whisky was designed to be more of a play boat – surf, rock gardening, rougher conditions – not touring. While capable of it, the Shadow, with its longer waterline, would have been easier to paddle on this leg.
I am not sure whether there was an issue here. While the Greenland paddle is still new to me, I never felt it a hindrance. I don’t know if the Werner would have helped either. I think my form was the real issue.
The second stage will take us from the Nisqually Delta to Pt Defiance (Owen Beach). That will take us through the Tacoma Narrows and around Point Defiance.
Conditions as of now call for a tailwind and we’ll have up to a 4.5 knot current assist. It should make for an easier day.